Salzburg, Where the Hills are Alive
Salzburg is a relatively quick 90 minute or so train ride from Munich’s central station. The town is known globally for its sound more than its sights. Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born and raised in Salzburg, and today he is considered the town’s favorite son. It is also the location of the movie Sound of Music. It is genuinely a gorgeous place.
The history of the town is perhaps more fascinating than its music. As its name implies, Salzburg was a critical trading and production hub for the single rock that we intentionally eat: salt. The salt mines here, along with its proximity to major trading routes through the Alps, made Salzburg an important hub for commerce. And therefore a major source of wealth for the church.
The church, like any great monarchy, fiercely defended its territory in Salzburg with fortifications. As is common here, the fortifications were placed over a Roman fort. The Romans again proving that they were masters of engineering. It is hard to overstate the massiveness of the castle. It had the traditional walls and embattlements, the many rooms and large kitchens with the requisite equally large staff. The only difference between this castle and others is that it had more areas for prayer.
Today, Salzburg remains a city steeped in the Catholic Church. The city is home to a giant Cathedral and still has a convent. It is because of this that Amadeus Mozart became such a prolific composer. Mozart’s father was a musician for the church in Salzburg, where he and his wife gave birth to Amadeus and his sister (who was also a talented musician – it must go in the family). Walking around the church buildings, the old and new blend together. Modernity takes a back step to tradition and piousness.
The other thing Salzburg is known for is Eagle’s Nest. The hilltop compound is in a small village outside Salzburg. Eagle’s Nest has a strong history with the Nazis, who used it as a retreat from the daily grind of killing and dictator work. Apparently, Hitler was afraid of heights and only visited occasionally, never spending the night.
This is the essence of European history: a blending of sights from the Romans to the Middle Ages to the last century’s world wars. It is all mixed together in a beautiful landscape and with people who refuse to be defined by it. This is one of the many things that is so special about this place.
A view of Salzburg from the castle walls.
The Salzburg Castle.
A piano (or is it a harpsicord?) in Mozart’s apartment in Salzburg.
One of the many gardens in Salzburg.
